Binisafúller, Menorca: Secret Seaside
Fecha: 17 February, 2016
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If your idea of beachside heaven is a secluded cove laced with pristine, silky white sand, knotted pines and clear, teal water, look no further than Binisafúller. Although you’re less than half an hour’s drive away from the airport in Menorca’s capital Mahon, you’d never guess; this really does feel like an idyllic island hideaway.
Well away from the better-known beaches further west, this narrow inlet is midway between the small resorts of Binidalí and Binibèquer (aka Binibeca). Indeed you can’t really describe Binisafúller (also known locally as Binisafua), as a resort at all as there’s nothing here apart from the beach, a couple of traditional, whitewashed villas and a handful of wooden fishing boats bobbing peacefully. The beach itself stretches no more than about 40 yards from one end to the other, shielded to the rear by a dense wood of pines, holly oaks and palm trees.
As you let your toes sink into the fine sand sloping down to the water’s edge, all you can see ahead is the sea, a sandbank on the horizon, and the rocks, trees and shrubs sheltering you on either side of the bay. The water is shallow, which makes it perfect for paddling with children.
If you just want to sunbathe or read that hefty tome you’ve been saving for the holidays, accompanied by nothing but the hypnotic whispering of the waves and the odd squawking seagull, this is the ideal place. Amazingly, there is free parking behind this unspoilt spot, and then it’s just a moment’s walk down a short sandy slope and some stone steps.
Being somewhere this far from beach bars, buffets and karaoke clubs does, however, mean that you’ll want to bring your own supplies, particularly if you’re coming with children. If you do suddenly find yourself in need of an emergency sun hat, bucket, spade or nappy, the nearest shops are 10 minutes’ drive along the coast in Binibèquer.
You could while away hours here doing very little indeed, but if you’re feeling more energetic, there’s the S’Algar Diving Centre in the nearby village of Sant Lluís, about 10 minutes’ drive inland. Sant Lluís is worth a visit in its own right. A leftover from Menorca’s days as a French stronghold in the 18th century, the village still has a Baroque church, an ethnological museum in a windmill, tantalising local patisseries, and some excellent restaurants.
Closer to the beach at Binisafúller, a five-minute drive along the main road, you’ll see the talayots – Bronze Age megaliths. Don’t expect anything too grand: these are a pile of low, square, rough-hewn boulders and one T-shaped boulder which looks like a Lilliputian out-take from Stonehenge.
For a gentle walk with spectacular scenery, the Camí de Cavalls takes you along the coast east to Binibèquer, or you can follow the footpaths inland past fields of radiant yellow buttercups to the hamlet of Torrets.
Getting there
Both Easyjet (easyjet.com) and Monarch (monarch.co.uk) fly into Mahon. Easyjet has flights from Liverpool, Luton, Gatwick and Southend, from £21.99 one way. Monarch flies from Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Birmingham and Leeds, from £22.99 one way and £62.98 return. You will need to hire a car at Mahon airport to get to Binisafúller, as none of the public bus services go there.
Where to stay
The closest hotels to Binisafúller also happen to be two of the best in Menorca.
An old whitewashed farmhouse now converted into a luxury country hotel on the outskirts of Sant Lluís, with gardens and spa treatments. It also has a renowned restaurant. Doubles from £86.
With its grand, 18th-century façade and antique-filled rooms, this stylish, family-run country hotel has delightful grounds and a pool as well as a very good restaurant. Doubles from £74.
Where to eat
- Bar-Restaurant Binisafua Mel
Alongside the road next to the car park behind the beach, Es Mel (as it’s locally known) is the place to come for cheese, tuna or ham bocadillos (baguette sandwiches) or drinks to take to the beach. There’s also a lovely sea-view terrace, where you can tuck into tapas or rice dishes. Tapas from £2.80. Set lunch menu £10.50. Open daily except Tuesdays noon-4.30pm, 7.30pm-midnight (0034 971 151 869).
- La Rueda
Great-value, family-friendly bar and terrace restaurant in Sant Lluís, with an impressive selection of tapas such as kidneys in sherry or meatballs in tomato sauce and exceptional, garlicky chips. Tapas from £2.80; weekday set lunch £7.70; open daily except Tuesdays, 12.30pm-3.30pm, 7pm-11pm (0034 971 15 11 84).
Smart fine dining restaurant serving Menorcan and Asturian specialities in a stylish country house setting. Using seasonal local produce, the talented chef creates dishes including slow-cooked lamb with thyme, and cuttlefish with Catalan sausage and artichokes. Main courses from £11.90; set menu £17.50.
Inside track
If you’re not tied to visiting during the school holidays, May, June, September and early October are perfect times to visit Menorca, as there are fewer tourists and prices are lower, but it’s still warm. Otherwise, if you are there in the summer, early morning (before 10am) or early evening (between 7pm and 8pm) are wonderful times to hit the beach, as it’s even more peaceful than usual.
Did you know?
Place names beginning with the prefix Bini, such as Binisafúller, date back to Spain’s Moorish occupation. Bini derives from the Arabic ben, meaning of son of and, in this case, fúller or fua is the Catalan word for leaf.
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